Sunday 18 October 2015

    My First wave at Aileens and More!

Photo: Micheal Fairbairn (@old_man_fairbs)


                      On the 10th of October 2015 an amazing day began to unfold. I started early, a standard leave at 6am job. I reached Kennedys centre in Lahinch at 8:15 from where I collected Lahinch local Tadhg Kennedy. We got some rocket fuel (orange juice) and headed on to the Cliffs of Moher. Tadhg and I jumped out of the car and with towels, boards and wetsuits flying everywhere, we ran down the cliff. On the way down we bumped into Stef Skajarowski, Peter Conroy and Alex Gray, all of whom were stoked on us getting into the water! We carried on down the goats trail and threw our wetsuits on ourselves. We then met fellow rebel booger Cian O Donavan and surfer John "Podge" O Donnell. We ran all the way down, Cian and myself first, Tadhg and John just behind us. Cian was telling me about the previous evenings antics and before I knew it we were at the waters edge! I put my fins and leash on and began paddling out. My heart was beating fast but I must admit the excitement outweighed the nerves! As we neared the peak we bumped into Matt Smith and Mitch Corbett who both wished us good luck and headed in with big smiles on their faces, a sign of things to come for us! We eventually made it to the peak and a nice looking set came in. I looked around me, no body had committed to it so I stamped my name on it and went! I dropped down the face at speed I have never felt on a bodyboard. The wave felt so big that my eyes struggled to focus on the bottom of the wave as it was so far away! I made it all the way down it and kicked off with hand shakes and smiles of congratulations from the lads! I was absolutely delighted! Then the biggest set of the day came in and I went on the first one, once again couldn't believe i was living the dream! I turned around to see Cian dropping down the face of the biggest wave I have ever seen in person! I was so happy for him! We had surfed all the other waves around together for the first time and it was nice to do the same at Aileens! We then got out and began making our way to part 2 of our day!

Photo: Tadhg Kennedy (@tadhgkennedy0)

        So onwards we went, to the infamous slab that we all love! It was safe to safe it was absolutely pumping!! I jumped in straight away and I had at least 3 of the best waves of my life! The vibe was great, plenty of craic with the lads. This was the best session and there is no point in me trying to portray how it made me felt on this because I simply couldn't! I hope the photos do it justice!

Photo: Clem McInerney (@clemymc)

Photo: Clem McInerny (@clemymc)

Ehmm party wave? Photo: Tom Knox (@tomknox.ky)

Loved this wave! Photo: Tom Gillespie (@tom_gillespie)


   I am so excited for the winter ahead! Hopefully some amazing sessions at this left and some more experience out at Aileens! Hopefully next time I will have a photo of my waves!! Thank you to all the photographers who have been documenting it all! Thanks to all the lads who have helped me in these waves over the last few months and for being legends! Yieww!
















  

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