Bundoran!
Sorry for not keeping the blog up to date recently folks, been mad busy with school and waves!
It was midweek and myself and Cian had just been let off on our Easter break from school and college. We both examined the charts and agreed that Bundoran looked like it was worth the shot. We left at 6am on Friday morning as the tide allowed us to get up for about 10. We got there in 4 hours which wasn't too bad and were greeted to lovely waves! We met with Gearoid McDaid and he said it was looking good so we jumped into our suits and paddled out. It was only myself and Cian out so we just kept trading barrels and ramps. Cian boosted a sick backflip on one of his first waves and it really set the pace for the rest of the session! We surfed for about 2.5 hours and had it to ourselves for the whole time. When we came back in we had a quick chat with some of the local ads including , Gearoid, Andy, Rory, Shane and Fintan. We then split, and went for lunch, not befoore we tried to drive away with Cians drying wetsuit on the roof ha ha! Here are a few photos of the session!
Myself lining up a little boost! Cian watching on.
Little forward spinna!
Cian in the baz!
Cian exiting a keg!
Not quite sure what this was Cian?
We drove on and bought some food and then went to check a left hander. We pulled up with Andy, Fintan and Shane. It looked small, but fun never the less! We contemplated what to do for a while and then decided to go for it! We threw our wetsuits on and got out there. As I was paddling out I saw Andy get at least a 3 seconds barrel, I was so stoked to be out there! I didn't stop paddling for the full hour and a half! We got out and tried to think of another place to surf, I had an idea but it was a risk but we decided the 45 minute drive could be worth it. We arrived at about 6:30 and the tide looked a bit too high. I was keen on getting in, so decided to put on my soaking wet suit and get in there. I got out there and it was just big enough for it to break. I caught a few but it was pretty sketchy because of how high the tide was. I fell on one wave and got washed in on top of rocks so decided to call it a day. Was fun to surf by myself for a while, no matter what the size it can be pretty intimidating when it's that shallow!
Photo: Cian O Donavan
Me, just getting under one!
We then met up with Gearoid again and went to his house where we made a quick plan for the next day and went to bed. We got up at 6am the next morning and went looking for some waves. The first spot we pulled up happened to be pumping! Myself, Cian, Gearoid, Noah Lane and Conor flanagan were first to paddle out. When we got out there I realised how big it actually was, it wasn't ideal for myself and Cian's first time out there. All the lads were charging hard and Cian followed, catching his first wave early. I was so scared but caught my first wave after about 10 minutes. I was filled with a bit more confidence then. A bigger one came through so I went and decided to go in. By the time I had got to the rocks I realised how big a set came after my last wave. Andy went on the first wave, fell and lost his board! As we were walking up the field an absolute bomb came through but luckily all the boys were able to get under it. Here are a few photos, but I don't think they will do the wave any justice. It was so heavy, but so good, I can not wait to get out there again!
As the tide dropped it got so thick!
No takers..
All my photos.
I got changed and then Cian and Gearoid got out so we moved on to a nearby well known left. It looked pretty fun when we got there so the lads hopped in straight away seeing as they had left there wetsuits on. The tide dropped a bit and it started to absolutely pump! Cian and Gearoid both getting some bombs!
Gearoid pulling in!
Gearoid in the keg!
Cian about to scoop into a nug!
Empty drainer
Thick..
All and all it was a great trip! We scored great waves over the two days. Thanks to Gearoid for the hospitality and all the lads for letting us get a few waves! Yieww!
Thanks to my sponsor, the pit surf shop!
No comments:
Post a Comment